Monday, 17th February, 2014 Mud, Mayhem and Mishap on the Road to Sindhulimadi

Distance - 35.7 miles   Climbing - 5262 ft
Route Details    www.strava.com/activities/116784102

What an eventful day !! Firstly, white tea and a basin of warm water for washing at 5.45 am, breakfast at 6.15 am, ready to leave at 7.00 am. I don't mind camping but the mornings are the worst time. Tent is cold and wet with condensation, clothes feel damp. Ugg.  Slept fitfully first night in tent, awake every couple of hours, too hot, so out went hot water bottle and fleece liner.   Spike's back tyre has stayed up so fingers crossed.  The next section of road is under construction so we bused it to Khurkot and the plan was to cycle from there, bikes went in a truck. What a nightmare, because of the heavy rain during the night the road has turned into a quagmire, buses, trucks, cars, slipping and sliding with steeps drops on both sides.  Our bus would get so far up a slope then grind to a halt in the rutted, muddy road. The men would get out and push, push and we would be off again.  I saw a service bus crammed full with people attempt a slope 5 times and not get up, I thought there was no way it could make it but about an hour later when we were having lunch the bus came trundling through. Amazing drivers and passengers. We saw stunning views of terraced farms, steep peaks and lush valleys. Families in the areas have had houses built for them in compensation for the road disruption. This was a better day, still chilly but the sun was out. A decision was made at Khurkot, as we were so behind schedule, not to cycle the approaching steep hill but bus us to the top. This was a climb of about 4,000 ft that I had really been looking forward to and trained hard for, so I was really disappointed and made my feelings known but to no avail. The decision was not open for discussion !!  So we bused to the top, had lunch, and I sat in the huff.  I quickly realised I was being silly, plans change in a trip like this so snapped out of it.  We had 35 miles to cycle and what a beautiful ride it was.  Great road with steep descents, twisting turning hairpin bends, fast, fast. There were also plenty uphills so all in all quite a taxing ride which made up for my earlier disappointment.  In fact there is no way we could have cycled the hill plus the last 35 miles in the day allotted.  Another time, this part of the route would need to be rethought.
 Natasha, who wasn't a confident cyclist and had spent day 1 in the car decided she would like to start cycling.  Ken and I stayed with her to offer advice.Unfortunately, she very quickly lost control of her bike and crashed.  She was badly grazed and her wrist damaged.  We put her in the back support vehicle then cycled furiously to catch the others,  I was quite exhausted by the time we caught them up. Natasha had her wrist strapped up but decided to stay with the group, travel in the car, and enjoy seeing Nepal and India.  I feel quite responsible as I was with her, the more experienced cyclist, so could have advised her better.  It was an accident waiting to happen.
  The weather is warmer now which is nice and we are in a lovely camp site with all amenities provided by the team.   I haven't had a shower yet, using baby wipes but I think I will tomorrow. Lovely evening meal of mild curry, meat and veg., rice, onion bhajis.  Lying in tent and there is loud music playing over loudspeakers, think a local wedding is in full swing. Joy of joys.  Mixed day but loving it.

Leaving 1st Camp Nepalthok

Will We Get Up ?

Onwards and Upwards

Road Under Construction

The Road We Didn't Cycle.

Lovely Downhill

Bemused Onlookers

Spike Looks Over Nepal

On the Road Again.

Sunday, 16th February 2014. Kathmandu to Nepalthok

Distance- 49.6 miles.   Climbing - 6890 ft
Route Details     http://www.strava.com/activities/115451359

Up at 5.00am for 6.30am start, just light, nervous and anxious to be on the road, get started. We slithered through the narrow, potholed, rough, twisting lanes of Kathmandu which led onto the busy wider roads heading east. Heavy, fast traffic cutting us up kept us alert.  Some medium climbs warmed us up and everyne seemed to be coping well. The lead support vehicle though was going too fast, leaving us behind and opening too wide a gap between lead and last vehicle. John is not happy, says they will have to be told to slow down. We stopped for a yummy second breakfast served on tables, what luxury. Some cyclists had bought rain jackets which was fortunate as rain came on shrouding the roads and terraced hills in a heavy mist. I thought it was supposed to be sunny and warm !! We came to a lay-by looking towards Tibet but could see nothing because of the rain.  I thought we had left this weather behind in Scotland!! The road veers between excellent and rutted mud going through villages. So difficult to keep your balance.  By lunchtime we were all soaked through and freezing, not looking forward to a soggy lunch, but Binod and his team were on the ball. Tents were quickly erected and a lovely lunch of sandwiches, coleslaw and delicious chips were produced. Unbelievable.  Feeling better we set off again but just before camp I had a puncture, blast, Spike never get punctures.  After a quick repair I discovered that it must have been a spoke pressing through, my tyre had been over-inflated. By now the rain was off and we reached our stunning camp site by the Khosi River in a deep valley.  The tents were up and hot showers were ready.  David went and sat in the cold river to ease his legs and other parts, prevention is better than cure ! We had a fabulous 3 course meal of soup, pork chop, roast potatoes, veg. and gravy followed by apples and custard.  Popcorn and homemade bombay mix to begin with. Enjoyed today, apart from the weather, children and people curious as ever whenever we stop. Pity about mist as thinks views would have been fabulous.  Feeling strong but a bit worried about wheel, could be spoke will pop through and cause further punctures. 

Getting Ready for the Road

Porridge, milk from kettle !!

Mmmmmmm

Terraced Hillsides

Michelle, John and Olga Negotiate the Mud

Ken, Janice, Janine, John Keeping Warm

Fraser, Michelle, Janine, David feeling the Heat.

1st Campsite - River Roshi Khola

David takes a Quiet Moment to Write his Blog

Home Sweet Home

Saturday, 15th February 2014. Disappointed Me.

Had decided after much thought to join two others on the group, Ken and Michelle, and book a flight over Everest. Up before five,  no breakfast and headed for the airport in a taxi. Still dark, still hopeful. Sat in the airport  for two hours waiting for a weather window. Then our flight was called,  so happy, camera ready. Taxi-ing looking good. Then pilot announced,  turning back, cloud over mountains.  Distraught. So disappointed  as I probably won't get another chance. Still the only positive is I saved a bit of money.
Returned for breakfast at the hotel then had Group preparation meeting at 12 noon. Binod Rai of Insight Himalaya, our Support Team seems to be on the ball with everything supplied.  They provide tent, 2 sleeping mats, pillow, sleeping bag, fleece liner, hot water bottle, hot showers, down jackets, generator for charging. Fantastic, what a team - sanitised camping methinks.  I have brought sleeping bag liner, pillow, 6 batteries for mobile phone, solar panel for Go-Pro, 2 camera batteries but all completely unnecessary.   After introductory meeting went out for lunch, into Kathmandu, with some of the group. Suddenly I found myself alone, where had the others gone, in the warren of streets and crowds it is just so easy to take a wrong turning.  I remembered we were going to the 'Third Eye' restaurant so didn't panic and kept asking for directions. Eventually I found myself at the restaurant and there were the others, quite unconcerned, they thought I had deliberately wandered off on my own. After lunch Fraser and I went out on our bikes to get a feel of the city and roads. I immediately went round a roundabout the wrong way but no-one seemed to mind, I think like India anything goes here.
Still feeling fine although tired, start cycling tomorrow.  Vanda is unwell, hope she makes it tomorrow. I am coping well with Nepalese food, doesn't seem as fiery as Indian food. Ready to be off, good stuff.

Boarding - Looking Good

Ken's Face Says It All

Kathmandu Photos

Delicious Momo's

Funeral Pyre

Friday,14th February 2014. Wow….What a Day

Wow what  a day we had today.  Firstly I slept fitfully waking at 4.00am, then dozed till 7.30am. Lovely and cozy in bed as I had blankets, not used to the weight of blankets anymore, felt strange. After a huge breakfast of fruit, omelette and Nepalese bits and pieces I headed out with the group for a guided tour of Kathmandu. Loved it, full of colour, temples and history. We saw Kasthamandah Temple, from which Kathmandu takes it's name. It is made of wood, no iron nails or supports and supposedly made from the timber of one tree. We visited the Kumari Ghar, a royal palace in the centre of the city where the Royal Kumari Devi lives. The Kumari is a young girl, from about 4 years to puberty chosen to live, during those years, as a living goddess. She is selected from the Nepalese Newari community and has to be in excellent health without blemish or disease. She is examined for 32 perfections e.g. eyelashes like a cow, thighs like a deer.  She never leaves the palace but is educated and receives family and friends there. It is a great honour to be chosen. We saw her at a viewing window but were forbidden to take photos, a young fidgeting girl, beautifully made up and dressed, but leading a hidden life. We witnessed cremations taking place on the banks of Bagmati River a tributory to the Ganges. Hordes of people just milling about watching,  here they willing share their funerals with strangers not keeping them private as we do. Fascinating but disturbing. We had a lunch of 'momos' overlooking the Boudhanath Stupa Temple which is the holiest Buddist site in Nepal. Thousands of prayer flags are hoisted up from the top of the Stupa downwards and dot the perimeter.. It was late afternoon by the time  I returned to the hotel and assembled Spike. No problems, in good shape. We dined tonight at the house of our support leader's parents. Binod's mother prepared a beautiful meal of water buffalo curry, chicken curry, vegetables, pakora and much more. So welcoming, so friendly. She trains the cooks in all Binod's support teams so that sounds promising.  It has  been a fascinating hectic day with so much to see and take in. Now have to get to bed as another early start. Love the vibrancy, noise, colour, history of Kathmandu. All good.

Middle Window Where Kumari Princess Appeared.

Fraser, Ken, Willie, Janice, Vanda, Olga in front of Boudhanath Stupa

Pidgeons Galore

Prayer Flags

Thursday,13th February 2014. Safe in Kathmandu

Arrived safely in Kathmandu after a good journey. Calcutta Airport was absolute chaos,  no signage and conflicting information. Took us about 5 hours to negotiate it, good job we weren't on quick transfer.  Stunning views of the Everest range as we flew in. Hotel fine, actually had a hot shower before we went out to dinner. The group is gradually asembling and seem a friendly bunch, mixed ages and cycling ability. Think there will be 6 women and 7 men. We met and were treated to delicious Nepalese food by the Kathmandu group of OGB's. ( Former pupils of DGH's ). Lovely. First impressions are of a warren on narrow streets selling fascinating goods. Tomorrow heading out at 9.00am on sight seeing tour. Quite tired now, so off to bed, jet lagged, 10.25pm local time.  Spike still his box but seems ok, will probably assemble tomorrow afternoon. All good.

Chaos of Kolkata Airport

Himalayas from Aeroplane

Kathmandu Airport

I"ve Arrived

Mmmmm - Nepalese Food

Kathmandu

Kathmandu Delights

OGB's Gathering

Wednesday, 12th February 2014. Goodbye Arran

Wednesday, 12th February, 2014. First Hurdle

On the ferry, good start, but Murray unwell, bad start. So have booked a  taxi to take me and Spike from Ardrossan Harbour to Glasgow.  Flight is tomorrow lunchtime so will hire another taxi to take me to airport. If I can cycle across America I can get me and the boxed bike to Glasgow Airport. Lovely to see the snow on the hills, hopefully the next snow I see will be the Himalayas.

And After

During

Before

Getting Ready for the Road

Cycling California Coast

Getting ready for the road. I love this part, the anticipation and anxiousness before you go. Whenever you arrive it is the beginning of the end. The perennial question of what to take, bike clothes are a given but off the bike when I am with a group is more difficult.  I know we are being entertained on our first night by our support leader's family. It will be cold at night but warm during the day  Then at the end, a hotel and church service. Then there is all the extra's for this modern world - chargers for mobile phone, go-pro, camera and kindle.  I will be camping for a week in remote Nepal so no charging points therefore using solar panel which will be slow.  You would think it would all fall into place by now but each tour is so different - culture, terrain, group dynamics, hygiene.  I am happy with my fitness level, cycling about 5 times a week, not big distances but seems more in this wild weather and of course always climbing. There will be 10,500ft of climbing this tour so once more the Arran hills are a blessing.

ANOTHER ADVENTURE

Off on my travels again, this time to Nepal and India cycling from Kathmandu to Kalimpong.  The distance is approx 350 miles with total climbing of 10500ft and descent of 10489 ft, that should be a roller coaster of a downhill, hope my brakes don't burn out.   We are a group of 13, I have met 3 before, organised by John Webster, King's Cross, the purpose apart from challenge and adventure is to raise funds for Dr. Graham's Homes, Kalimpong. We have to raise £1000 each but pay all our costs ourselves. Every penny raised goes to the Homes.  I have cycled from Kolkata to Kalimpong twice before so know what to expect although I have never been to Nepal.  We have a support team who take care of our needs but we camp by the roadside with makeshift amenities. Not for the fainthearted!!!!