KATHMANDU TO KALIMPONG 2014: 2014

Thoughts on My Trip

Now that I am back home I wonder why India, also Nepal leaves such an impact on me. It will not let go, I fall asleep thinking about the bike ride, I awake and the trip is the first thing on my mind. Other countries I've visited have different but similar cultures but India/Nepal assaults your senses from the moment you arrive. The scams, the extreme poverty, the dirt, the constant noise, the people, the child and adult beggars. 3rd world standards. Some people hate it, can't handle it, but not me although at times it overwhelms me by it's intensity.

Where to begin. The first thing you become aware of is that you are the centre of attention, groups of people stand, arms folded staring, watching every move you make. They are just curious and you soon get used to it, hardly notice it after a while. One day after showering in camp, I was sitting moisturising my legs, looked up and a line of villagers were watching me. Who cares, I just continued. On our journey most people were extremely friendly, welcoming us into their homes, asking questions about our trip, wanting their photo taken.

The traffic is noisy, hectic, every man for himself. Whoever has there 'nose' in front wins. Horns blasting are used for what they were intended ' look out, I'm here, coming through'. The speed is steady, with buses and lorries hurtling past.

Dirt and litter is everywhere, the people seem content to live with it. Don't seem aware of it.
In Kolkata beggars are grabbing at you from the moment of arrival, quite intimidating. Seeing very young children beg is upsetting but John says it is the Governments problem and we are giving responsibly. Kathmandu seems a world away from Kolkata, there is almost an air of a tourist town about it. Many shops selling all manner of goods, good restaurants, fascinating temples and shrines.

DGH is an oasis of calm and structure. The children smart and cared for, they are the lucky ones.
Will I return, I hope so. Tracy, my sponsored girl is growing up quickly, and I want to keep a close connection with her. When India gets under your skin it is difficult to stay away.

Finally I would like to salute my fellow cyclists - John, James, Ken, Vanda, Digby, Fraser, Michelle, Olga, Janine, Willie, David and Natasha. Not forgetting Binod ( Support Team Leader) who cycled most of the way with us. We all gelled, supported each other, friendships have been made.
Spike and I loved it, till the next time … …

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Me and My Girl

Wednesday, 26th February, 2014. Homeward Bound

Rose at 4.45am, enjoyed an early breakfast with John and Jennifer. John has repacked his bike but has put the handlebars back on and just turned the forks. You are supposed to remove handlebars, turn and attach to bike. Much slimmer and neater. As a result his box has got a huge bulge in it which he has taped and tied with string. Looks so funny. Spike of course is very neat and tidy. Smirk, smirk. The mini bus with Vanda and Fraser arrives, she is still not 100%, hope she improves when she gets home.
We arrived at chaotic Kolkata Airport but surprisingly things go much more smoothly this time. John chats up the check in clerk, apparently he comes from Kalimpong and is very interested in our bike ride. Before we know it we are all upgraded to Business Class on the first leg to Dubai. Lovely. Loads of legroom, loads of drink if we want it, tablecloth, lovely food. Good stuff. We transfer easily in Dubai and arrive in Glasgow on the morning of Thursday 27th February. Murray meets me and goodbyes are said. I will see John and Jennifer in Arran, Vanda in Islay, would like to think my path would cross Fraser's again one day. Difficult saying goodbye. Journey's end.

Yes

Fraser Enjoys

Home Sweet Home

Tuesday, 25th February, 2014 Kolkata

Slept quite well on the train, no doors on train between carriages, don't stumble !! We arrive in Kolkata about an hour late, not too bad. Olga left us at the station, she was met by Indian friends and is staying with them for a few days. Kolkata is still chaotic, a melee, noisy, porters jostling for your business. Persistent, child and adult beggars demanding your attention. We are met by John's agent in Kolkata and taken to the Fortune Select Hotel, Vanda and Fraser are staying at the Baptist Mission Hostel with friends. I stayed there last trip, very nice, but John, Jennifer and James were going to the Hotel so I decided to go with them. A little bit of guilty luxury. We immediately went for a lovely breakfast then afterwards I had a look at Spike. He is filthy, in a sorry state, keeps giving me dirty looks saying clean me but he will have to wait. I re-boxed him and made sure he was properly packed for the flight home. Washed hair and had a shower then joined James poolside for a blether. I had booked a full body massage in the hotel for 2.00pm, £24, you would pay at least £80 back home. The masseuse appeared with a small tray containing a sweet drink, a bowl of water and what looked like a large pill !! I drank the drink, popped the large pill in the water and surprisingly the pill began to grow, it was a towel to wipe my face. What next !! The massage was wonderful but painful, I called a halt when she started folding one leg over the other and bending it back.. Enough is enough. Met John, Jennifer and James for drinks and dinner, James accidentally spilt a bottle of red wine over Jennifer and me, a fitting end to our trip! James flight is during the night, another one leaves. My flight is at 8.55am so we are leaving at 5.00am, last early start. Nearly there, nearly finished, nearly home.

John

Fraser

James

Digby

Michelle

Janine

Willie

Olga

David

Vanda

Ken

Natasha

Janice

Binod ( Leader Support Team )

Wonderful 'Insight Himalaya' Team and the Cyclists

Monday, 24th February, 2014 Last day in Kalimpong.

Writing this in a shaking, shoogly sleeper train heading from Siliguri to Kolkata. Started the day at 8.00am, breakfast of porridge, omelette, and toast. DGH sits on a ridge above Kalimpong but the road continues behind it, up to the top of Deolo Hill, from where there are stunning views of Kanchanjunga, the third highest mountain in the world. Usually at this time of year the mist is down and on my two previous visits I have never seen it. Maybe I will be lucky this time ? Olga and I take a taxi to the top, a beautiful flower lined road, fantastic views of the flowing Teesta River and surrounding hills. And yes, there it is , the Kanchanjunga Range appearing through the mist, not sharply clear but visible. We are so happy, definitely worth the visit. We take plenty of photos, oohing and aching away. Reluctantly we leave and the taxi drops us back in Kalimpong to do some shopping, bought some presents for my grandchildren. Bags for the girls, colouring and designs from Tibet, Nepal and Bhutan. Singing Bells for my grandson. We then went to Gumbo's Restaurant and had 4 large pork filled Momo's. So delicious. Ken and his family came in and joined us. We returned to our hotel to await out transport back to Siliguri, down the steep dusty hill that we had cycled up. How did we manage it? Some took sickness pills but the journey wasn't too bad this time. In Siliguri Prakash met us and we were treated to dinner by his company, Heat Flexi Travels. It is 10 years since they started assisting John with the bike ride so Prakash made a moving speech and presented John with a plaque. John was very emotional in his reply. Prakash then conveyed us to sleeper train, he has taken care of the bikes too, so efficient. John has booked us into the '1st class' sleeper carriage. We have a separate compartment, 4 ladies together, Janine, Olga, Vanda and myself. What luxury. Before I was sleeping along the side of the corridor being passed by all sorts. I have, 2 sheets, blanket and pillow but I am using my sleeping bag liner just to be on the safe side. The train noise is quite soothing, I hope I sleep. So sad to say goodbye to Prakash and his team, he is such a lovely man. Vanda is still not a hundred percent, her tummy has troubled her all week. She has cycled the whole way, even managing the hill at the end, without stopping. Some girl. Natasha has to go into hospital in Siliguri and have her wrist reset and plastered. She has not complained when she must have been in pain, camping must have been so difficult for her. How quickly this trip is now coming to an end. Don't want it to finish.

Kanchanjunga

Janice and Kanchanjung Range

Kalimpong Market

Olga in Kalimpong

Pretty Ladies in Kalimpong

How Did We Cycle this Road?

John and Prakash

Janice Receives Kada from Deepah

My Red Bag with Another on Top

John's Plaque

Night Cap

Vanda Rests

Sunday, 23rd February, 2014 Himalayan Hotel, Kalimpong

Total Distance - 320.5 miles Climbing - 18,704 feet

Rose at 7.45am for breakfast at 8.30am, no cycling today, feels strange. I didn't sleep too well in my nice comfy bed, too hot. We had a lovely celebratory dinner in the hotel last night, our last together as Michelle leaves this afternoon. Too soon we start splitting up. We left for church at DGH, an outdoor service , under canvas. The School Chaplain conducted the service with Fraser playing the bagpipes at the beginning and end, he presented a plaque from the Royal Scots Guards to the school. David read from the bible, John gave a lesson and Digby spoke about his life and played the organ for the last hymn. Cottage girls sang an enchanting song. It was a lovely service on a beautiful day. Afterwards I spent time with Tracy, my sponsored girl. Although we correspond I haven't seen her in 4 years, some sponsors never meet their children so I am very lucky. She is a beautiful, intelligent girl and we had a special time together. She showed me around Birrisa Cottage where she lives with other girls the same age, I met her Housemother, Auntie Margaret. Before dinner tonight James entertained us with jokes then John treated us with a trick involving, water tumblers, a tray, eggs and matchboxes. A tumbler with water, tray on top, matchbox on it's edge, egg balanced on top of matchbox. John then hits tray away and eggs fall into water. He then repeated this with 4 eggs. So clever, must try it sometime !!! Ken's siblings have arrived, they plan to visit the Homes and tour India over the next fortnight. Ken is a former pupil of the Homes and he spoke of his school experiences, good and bad. Fascinating. Willie leaves for home tomorrow, another one away. We sat up late ( for us ) tonight chatting and enjoying each other's company. This has been a friendly group, we all gelled and helped each other out. It is always sad to say goodbye.

Himalayan Hotel

janine, olga and Janice

Sunday Service

The Boys

Fraser

The Girls Sing for Us

So Good to Meet Tracy Again

Tracy and Janice

Birissa Cottage - Tracy's Bed is Dark Check

Boys Play Football

Cottage Lunch is Ready

Catherine Graham Church

Saturday, 22nd February, 2014. Siliguri to Kalimpong. Hill - 4000ft

Distance - 44.5 miles Climbing - 11735 feet
Route details http://www.strava.com/activities/115455343

Our last cycling day, where has the week gone? Rose at 6.00am for breakfast at 6.30am, just toast and tea served in tiny cups. Oh the joy of a real bed ! John, James and Binod left at 6.00am to give themselves a good start on what was to prove a gruelling day. The rest of us left just after 7.00am, dull with spots of rain which came to nothing, thank goodness, road already quite busy with traffic. For about 20 miles we cycled through forests with beware elephants signs. Elephants have right of way here, I wouldn't be arguing. Then disaster, the road is under construction and now congested with close, noisy, incessant traffic. The winding, stoney, uneven surface throwing up clouds of dust is unbearable. We are given face masks to wear but I find it makes me too hot. This goes on for 10 exhausting miles, what a nightmare, not the best lead in to the Himalaya's. Poor Willie's chain broke, so unfair so close to the finish, I could see he was very disappointed. Then I remembered I had a chain link with me, I have been carrying it for 5 years and never had to use it. After a bit of a struggle the chain was repaired and Willie could continue, so happy for him. Knowing the big climb was coming up I didn't push myself but held back conserving my energy for what was to come. We are met by a party of children from Sai Samity Bah Bikas Kendra School holding placards of greetings, they place kada's round out necks. (Scarves of welcome). So friendly. Eventually, we crossed the bridge over the Teesta River and the 4000 ft climb over 10 miles begins. Slow and steady cycling with Vanda and Janine but going at my own pace, I never allow myself to be pulled along beyond my ability. A third of the way up Prakash has arranged a lunch break but Vanda and I keep going, we are in a rhythm and don't want to stop. It is harder than I remember but I feel good. Vanda is talking to herself, scolding herself to keep going. Steep, horseshoe bends, constantly up, no respite, twisting, turning, up, up, up. Teasingly the road flattens out, only to climb again, steeper, higher. 5 miles in, going well, 8 miles in, going well, breathing good. 10 miles and one and a half hours later , relief, round the corner there is Soods Hotel and a warm welcome from the Principal, Mrs Hilda Peacock and Headmaster, Mr Bannerjee of Dr. Graham's Homes. I have made it, I feel great, in good shape. The others arrive soon after, some cycling, some walking but all completing their journey. The hotel provides us with very welcome tea and snacks. The band of Dr. Graham's Homes escorts us through the town of Kalimpong, the Police have closed the main street. The town's people stand and stare, I wonder what they make of it all. Many people dart in front of us, taking photos, I feel quite a celebrity !! DGH is 5 miles further on, John has decided, because we are behind schedule that we will take a shortcut (?) up the much steeper Tirpie Road. We all walk, muttering, pushing our bikes. At last we near the Homes and we can hear the children before we see them, the road is lined with screaming, waving children, what a emotional welcome. They crowd round us, some shy, some smiling. Mrs Peacock makes a speech of welcome and we are welcomed with more kada's and book about DGH. John replies thanking the boys and girls for their very rewarding welcome. I see Tracy, my lovely sponsored girl, and arrange to meet her tomorrow after church service. At last we are free to pile into the vehicles and be conveyed to the Himalayan Hotel. Our cycle is over, we are tired and weary, a bit relieved but ooh so happy. Tomorrow we will explore the Homes. All good.